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Post by mcclooney on Nov 4, 2019 18:34:45 GMT
Hello,
Does somebody knows how to code this option?
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Post by vwjap on Nov 4, 2019 18:57:53 GMT
Why do these people keep putting stuff on YouTube but not put instructions on how to do it! The menu is a standard mod (DRL on car menu) the 10% indicator as DRL I dunno sorry
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valk
Full Member
Posts: 112
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Post by valk on Nov 4, 2019 21:54:51 GMT
I guess they programmed the ‘u’ as 100%-on always, and then the turrnsignal as daytime running light?
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 4, 2019 22:36:03 GMT
Hello, Does somebody knows how to code this option? ^^^yes - valk is correct! BUT DON'T TRY THIS IF YOUR CAR HAS INCANDESCENT TURN-SIGNAL LAMPS (it will melt the lamp base sockets)
Try this (in the hex09 module with magic number 31347):
Leuchte0 BLK VL B36Lichtfunktion C0 > set value to Tagfahrlicht (factory setting: not active) Dimmwert CD0> percent value to 100 (factory setting: 0)
Leuchte1BLK VR B20 Lichtfunktion C1 > set value to Tagfahrlicht (factory setting: not active) Dimmwert CD1 > set percent value to 100 (factory setting: 0)
If you have an earlier model mk7 (before about MY16) Daytime Running Lights- Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge möglich > set to active (factory setting: not active)
If you have a later model mk7 Außenlicht_Front-Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich > set to active (factory setting: not active)
Don
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valk
Full Member
Posts: 112
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Post by valk on Nov 4, 2019 22:58:13 GMT
^^^ will it work of you replace te bulbs with led-bulbs, instead of refitting the complete R-unit headlight?
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 5, 2019 5:46:09 GMT
^^^ will it work of you replace te bulbs with led-bulbs, instead of refitting the complete R-unit headlight? valk: yes, but only if you don't include CAN error resistors - because the retrofitted LED-bulbs will be much more efficient and therefore they should draw much less electrical current.
Lamp base heating (in watts) is determined by the formula I^2 *R (where "I" is electrical current). So, if the current is halved, the heating watts is reduced by four!!
But you should choose an suitable setting for the lasttyp channels when you change the lamps (like, 33 - LED-Modul Blinkleuchten)
Don
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valk
Full Member
Posts: 112
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Post by valk on Nov 5, 2019 8:00:10 GMT
Thank you for your explanation. I’m starting to understand the lighting programming.
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Post by mcclooney on Nov 5, 2019 11:36:26 GMT
DV52
Thanks for the information!
My MK7 GTI is from the 2013 model year so I'm afraid I don't have LED indicators.
Option 1 would therefore be to replace the flashing lights for an LED turn-signal. but afther i will get a canbus error?
Option 2 retrofit R Headlights?
There is no other option to run this safe with my headlights?
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 5, 2019 12:36:25 GMT
DV52 Thanks for the information! My MK7 GTI is from the 2013 model year so I'm afraid I don't have LED indicators. Option 1 would therefore be to replace the flashing lights for an LED turn-signal. but afther i will get a canbus error? Option 2 retrofit R Headlights? There is no other option to run this safe with my headlights? hmm.......... it's probably my thick Australian accent, but you have misunderstood my response!
Not all LED lamps are built the same - some (many?) LED lamps don't need a separate CAN error resistor and they don't result in DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). But some (not many?) do need these large thermal resistors to mimic the electrical loading of incandescent lamps.
The normal rating of an incandescent front turn-signal lamp on a mk7 is 24 Watts whereas the equivalent rating of a replacement LED lamp (without a separate CAN resistor) is more like 5 Watts. If you assume that the duty cycle (the ratio of lamp-on/lamp-off time) for a functioning turn signal is 50% - the lamp base on a Golf mk7 has a designed thermal limit of about 6 Watts (see my formulae above). If you implement the US DRL tweak for incandescent lamps - the power through-put for each individual lamp base increases fourfold!! Result=melting lamp base!!!
Moral of the story - keep the wattage of the turn-signal lamp below about 6 watts if you want them switched-on full time on a car that is factory fitted with incandescent lamps!!! Of course, you could achieve this by drastically dimming the incandescent lamp - but this would have real safety implications. Only practical solution is to use LED lamps that don't need separate ballast resistors
Don
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