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Post by divsec on Aug 24, 2016 15:01:48 GMT
Disable Start/Stop
Select Control unit 19
Adaptation
Start Stop Limit voltage
Value=12
Could anyone please advise what the enabled value should be?
We have 12 for disabled but what is it for enabled and are there values between 12 and the enabled value??
Thanks in advance.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Aug 25, 2016 0:32:13 GMT
Disable Start/Stop Select Control unit 19 Adaptation Start Stop Limit voltage Value=12 Could anyone please advise what the enabled value should be? We have 12 for disabled but what is it for enabled and are there values between 12 and the enabled value?? Thanks in advance. divsec: hi. First point to make about this tweak is that the "voltage" method of disabling/enabling isn't available to all mk7s. The Start/Stop start voltage limit adapation channel was only included into the CAN Gateway on later models. For those that don't have this adaptation channel, the "Temperature" method is the only option (i.e. change Start/Stopp Auntemperaturvorgabe > Minimaltemperatur and Start/Stopp Auntemperaturvorgabe > Maximaltemperatur to 50 - the default value is -50.0) So, to answer your question, the default setting for Start/Stop start voltage limit is 7.4, but any number lower than 10V should re-enable Start Stop Don PS: But there is a much better way of disabling SS! Just build and install a simple Start Stop Kill switch as I describe HERE |
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Post by divsec on Aug 25, 2016 8:19:23 GMT
Disable Start/Stop Select Control unit 19 Adaptation Start Stop Limit voltage Value=12 Could anyone please advise what the enabled value should be? We have 12 for disabled but what is it for enabled and are there values between 12 and the enabled value?? Thanks in advance. divsec: hi. First point to make about this tweak is that the "voltage" method of disabling/enabling isn't available to all mk7s. The Start/Stop start voltage limit adapation channel was only included into the CAN Gateway on later models. For those that don't have this adaptation channel, the "Temperature" method is the only option (i.e. change Start/Stopp Auntemperaturvorgabe > Minimaltemperatur and Start/Stopp Auntemperaturvorgabe > Maximaltemperatur to 50 - the default value is -50.0) So, to answer your question, the default setting for Start/Stop start voltage limit is 7.4, but any number lower than 10V should re-enable Start Stop Don PS: But there is a much better way of disabling SS! Just build and install a simple Start Stop Kill switch as I describe HEREPerfect Don thank you, I want to reinstate it so will set a value lower than 7.4. It has been misbehaving due to a very low battery level, obdeleven left connected, my stupid. In my tiny mind lowering the value will con the car into a reset?  ? |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Aug 25, 2016 9:15:04 GMT
divsec: hmm.. not sure what you are expecting, but the Start/Stop start voltage limit channel doesn't reset anything! This channel contains the threshold voltage that SS uses to ascertain whether there is sufficient charge in the battery to "start" the engine again if it is stopped by SS. If the "system voltage" is higher than the setting in this channel, SS will operate. That's why when you set this channel to 12V, SS is disabled - because the "system voltage" is lower than 12 Volts on a healthy battery. System Voltage is a calculated number - it's very different to battery voltage. The way to "reset the car" after a low battery scenario is to either take the car for a long drive, or to use a good battery charger. If you do hook-up an external charger, make very sure that you connect it properly to the mk7 so that you INCLUDE the battery monitor control module (J367) into the charging circuit. This is very important because wrongly connecting the charger produces an incorrect calculation of System Voltage. If System Voltage is incorrectly calculated, decisions within the control modules will be wrong! So, the correct way to hook-up an external charger to a mk7 that is fitted with SS is to connect the negative charger lead to a naked engine bolt (or the special chassis tag near the battery negative clamp) NEVER, I REPEAT NEVER, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CHARGER LEAD DIRECTLY TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. I produced the picture below to show how to correctly jump-start a mk7, but the same principle applies to an external charger Don  |
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Post by divsec on Aug 25, 2016 15:58:17 GMT
divsec: hmm.. not sure what you are expecting, but the Start/Stop start voltage limit channel doesn't reset anything! This channel contains the threshold voltage that SS uses to ascertain whether there is sufficient charge in the battery to "start" the engine again if it is stopped by SS. If the "system voltage" is higher than the setting in this channel, SS will operate. That's why when you set this channel to 12V, SS is disabled - because the "system voltage" is lower than 12 Volts on a healthy battery. System Voltage is a calculated number - it's very different to battery voltage. The way to "reset the car" after a low battery scenario is to either take the car for a long drive, or to use a good battery charger. If you do hook-up an external charger, make very sure that you connect it properly to the mk7 so that you INCLUDE the battery monitor control module (J367) into the charging circuit. This is very important because wrongly connecting the charger produces an incorrect calculation of System Voltage. If System Voltage is incorrectly calculated, decisions within the control modules will be wrong! So, the correct way to hook-up an external charger to a mk7 that is fitted with SS is to connect the negative charger lead to a naked engine bolt (or the special chassis tag near the battery negative clamp) NEVER, I REPEAT NEVER, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CHARGER LEAD DIRECTLY TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. I produced the picture below to show how to correctly jump-start a mk7, but the same principle applies to an external charger Don Don thanks so much, the 12 figure is what I needed to understand. The dongle was used to deactivate ss and the reactivate, unfortunately it left the value at 12. Then I stupidly left the dongle plugged into the car for a week. The put a drain on the battery which recovered, fortunately and then I see the message ss not working due to power consumption too high. 2+2 made at least 5 in my mind must be the battery is the problem. Think think research, then see setting the normal 7.4 to 12 deactivates ss. All gets clear and now everything is back to where I want it. Thanks again and please keep helping I for one need it! D |
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harry
New Member
Posts: 43 
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Post by harry on Aug 25, 2016 21:35:45 GMT
From memory 8v is enabled.... So the engine stops if the battery voltage read anything above 8v.. Hence why 12 to disable
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Post by bk227865 on Nov 3, 2016 18:21:04 GMT
Hi DV52 i own a beetle 2015 and tried to port over your killswitch guide to it. I managed to kill my switch alright.... my own fault btw. : guiding cigaret lighter power over the fragile pushbutting tracings whas not one of my smartest moves. cost me a ride to the VW car parts dealer , he had 2 second hand buttons at 15 euro a piece, so i bought them both to experiment .  but all's well that end's well  The biggest advantage of your killswitch device is that the button remains functional. |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 3, 2016 19:53:20 GMT
Hi DV52 i own a beetle 2015 and tried to port over your killswitch guide to it. The biggest advantage of this killswitch device is that the button remains functional. bk227865:hi. Good job!!! Not clear whether you managed to integrate my switch into your 2nd hand switch, but my design does the same as the switch in the video. My SS kill switch waits 5 seconds after ignition-on, then the kill command is sent to disable Start-Stop. After this happens, the OEM SS button can be pressed to enable/re-disenable SS at any time in the journey Don  |
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Post by bk227865 on Nov 4, 2016 4:45:06 GMT
Basically i follow your 3th design , the closed loop one.
So it's not integrated in the button, its an trinket (small arduino) , together with 2 optocouplers and some resistors to read and set the button state.
The ODBELEVEN came in handy to remove the airbag error i triggered by pulling out the warning light with the contact on.
A warning light popped up on the dash warning me that my warning light was unplugged ... lol.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 4, 2016 9:41:53 GMT
Basically i follow your 3th design , the closed loop one. So it's not integrated in the button, its an trinket (small arduino) , together with 2 optocouplers and some resistors to read and set the button state. The ODBELEVEN came in handy to remove the airbag error i triggered by pulling out the warning light with the contact on. A warning light popped up on the dash warning me that my warning light was unplugged ... lol. OK - now I understand. Not familiar with the "trinket", but I know that the design works perfectly well with a Digispark (small arduino).
Since you have shown an interest, my next evolution of the SS kill-switch is to incorporate a "memory" function that remembers the state of the SS setting at the previous ignition. Not sure if the trinket can do this, but the latest generation of the Digispark is a version called Digispark Pro. The newer version has some added goodies - like 256K EPROM that's programmable (in addition to the usual flash memory). Haven't started the new design yet, but in theory it should be fairly easy to set-up a few registers that remember the SS state when the ignition is off - so that at the next ignition switch-on the previous SS state can be used.
I might even incorporate a facility that will disable the SS kill-switch entirely for when the car is taken to the dealer for a service. I think this can be done by holding-down the SS switch on the console when the ignition is turned-on and reading this state to force the program to go into hibernation (the hibernation state can be disabled th next time the same sequence is done (i.e. the SS switch is held down at ignition switch-on). Anyhow, just plans for now - hope to get some spare time soon to start!!
Don
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Post by bk227865 on Nov 4, 2016 13:13:40 GMT
i think im going to have to unpack my breadboard again EDIT: Actually i think im going to stop at stage 3 for now (closed loop, default off). I started drawing and it kept getting complexer and complexer , i got to needing 4 optocouplers. one to read the button push. One to send the button push along to the car. One to read the led (startstop) state. and a last one drive the actual led (that way i could blink the led in the button without actually changing the start stop state) The blinking could then be used to signal the stealth mode activation/deactivation. That would also allow to push the button without actually sending the push on to the car (different optocouplers for sendign an recieving) EDIT 2 : When i woke up this morning i got the idea that it's possible without extra hardware (if we make a simple assumption) : We cannot see if the button is pushed , but we can see the led going on or off and "assume" that is because of a button push. I was thinking of something like this. in the "setup" of the arduino we set a "NeedUpdate" flag to true and a "Error" to false and a "Counter" to 0. (all normal memory variable). Then in the "loop" we first check if the "NeedUpdate" flag is true and the "Error" flag false. If they are then the arduino reads its EEPROM memory to get last know led status. If that is the same as the current led status then all is good and we turn of the "NeedUpdate" flag. If it is different then try a max of 10 times to change the led status (software pushes button) If no success after 10 times set the "Error" flag to true , this will stop any more actions. If successfull then we set the "Needupdate" to false and the "Counter" back to 0. Now we keep reading the ledstatus until it becomes diffrent from the EEPROM but the "Needupdate" is false and the "Error" is false. If those 3 variables have the correct value we "assume" that the button is pushed and write the current ledstate to the "EEPROM" The stealth mode : The procedure to go to stealth mode could be : make sure start/stop is enabled , so led is OFF an EEPROM is off too, now turn of ignition completly and restart while keeping the button pressed. Now the arduino sees led on but EEPROM OFF during boot( use a firstboot flag ?) and will switch stealth mode on/off. |
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