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Post by Alfmilam on Jun 1, 2016 15:34:34 GMT
Is there any way to make the a/c colder in the car through adaptations or anything? Mine doesn't blow that cold, it's a year old and never was cold, I did a scan and never threw any codes.
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Post by ugurs3er on Jun 6, 2016 15:06:21 GMT
hi there,
your car is 1 year old, whats up with warranty?
go to your local vw dealer.....
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Post by marcg611 on Jun 28, 2016 12:42:18 GMT
You can change to warm weather region apparently, someone on obd11golfmk7 forum posted it.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jun 28, 2016 23:06:55 GMT
Is there any way to make the a/c colder in the car through adaptations or anything? Mine doesn't blow that cold, it's a year old and never was cold, I did a scan and never threw any codes. Alf: hi
I developed a set of tweak instruction for addressing this very same issue whilst discussing this matter with a bunch of guys that have NAR model mk7s (apparently it's now summer up there in USA - it certainly isn't summer down here!).
Anyhow, long story short - VW design their AC compressors to have two operational set-points: VW calls these "High delivery rate for high cooling" and "Low delivery rate for low cooling". In OBD11 speak, these settings translate to "cooler tuning cooler operation" and "normal". What happens when you change the setting on the AC control module is that a valve in the refrigerant compressor is altered which effectively increases the stroke of compressor. This increases the capacity of the compressor. The change doesn't alter the minimum temperature of the AC system -so don't expect that the car will become chillier (this is because the differential high/low pressures don't change)- but what it does do is to shorten the time that it takes to achieve the desired temperature in the cabin!
Now before I explain how to make the change, I have to say that I'm totally confused as to why some NAR models have the "normal" setting and some appear to be factory fitted with the "cooler" setting. My hypothesis is that the reason for the different settings might be because of different local emission restrictions in each State - but this is entirely a guess. What I hope is that there is no variation in the factory fitted AC equipment between NAR models with the two factory settings - but I just don't know! Perhaps a more knowledgeable forum colleague here could advise - perhaps Admin ?
So, here's how it's done ( ie. changing the AC to "hot countries" setting) - hopefully the diagrammatic procedure that I have put-together is self explanatory!
Cheers
Don
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Post by djvoic3 on Jun 29, 2016 14:20:24 GMT
Just FYI. Tried this and it does cool the cabin quicker!
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Post by DaveMac23 on Jul 26, 2016 14:45:25 GMT
Thanks for the coding for doing the "hot climate" ac tweak but what do you mean when you said also look into changing the blower settings at the end of your post? Can you elaborate on that setting please?
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Post by RobGTI on May 19, 2017 23:21:19 GMT
Is there any way to make the a/c colder in the car through adaptations or anything? Mine doesn't blow that cold, it's a year old and never was cold, I did a scan and never threw any codes. Alf: hi
I developed a set of tweak instruction for addressing this very same issue whilst discussing this matter with a bunch of guys that have NAR model mk7s (apparently it's now summer up there in USA - it certainly isn't summer down here!).
Anyhow, long story short - VW design their AC compressors to have two operational set-points: VW calls these "High delivery rate for high cooling" and "Low delivery rate for low cooling". In OBD11 speak, these settings translate to "cooler tuning cooler operation" and "normal". What happens when you change the setting on the AC control module is that a valve in the refrigerant compressor is altered which effectively increases the stroke of compressor. This increases the capacity of the compressor. The change doesn't alter the minimum temperature of the AC system -so don't expect that the car will become chillier (this is because the differential high/low pressures don't change)- but what it does do is to shorten the time that it takes to achieve the desired temperature in the cabin!
Now before I explain how to make the change, I have to say that I'm totally confused as to why some NAR models have the "normal" setting and some appear to be factory fitted with the "cooler" setting. My hypothesis is that the reason for the different settings might be because of different local emission restrictions in each State - but this is entirely a guess. What I hope is that there is no variation in the factory fitted AC equipment between NAR models with the two factory settings - but I just don't know! Perhaps a more knowledgeable forum colleague here could advise - perhaps Admin ?
So, here's how it's done ( ie. changing the AC to "hot countries" setting) - hopefully the diagrammatic procedure that I have put-together is self explanatory!
[
Cheers
Don
Hey Dom, Don't see any options for these controls on MY 17 GTI is there a chance it's some other portion of the a/c control? Thanks Rob |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on May 20, 2017 5:41:40 GMT
Rob: It's entirely possible that there have been changes to the adaptation channel descriptors on MY17 control modules for A/C (it happened for the Central electrics module)
Have you done a "back-up" for this module? If so, post up the Adaptation channel map and we can all see what's happening to the AC module!
Don
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Post by robgti on May 20, 2017 16:20:30 GMT
Back up: long coding:00020004200100000000000000099992
Not sure if I can upload a screenshot from mobile...
Been searching though the adaptations as well as long coding and can't seem to see any adjustments.
Could this be buried in another module?
Thanks Don,
Rob
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Post by robgti on May 20, 2017 16:21:15 GMT
00020004200100000000000000000002-- edit To long code
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on May 21, 2017 8:28:14 GMT
Back up: long coding:00020004200100000000000000099992 Not sure if I can upload a screenshot from mobile... Been searching though the adaptations as well as long coding and can't seem to see any adjustments. Could this be buried in another module? Thanks Don, Rob Rob, follow the instructions below for your Air Con module, email yourself a copy of the results - then post-up the contents of the resulting back-up file Don  |
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frankm
Junior Member
Posts: 52 
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Post by frankm on May 26, 2017 2:05:11 GMT
Don, I just got the update on my OBD Eleven today and jumped right into the A/C module to adjust the temperature output. It appears that VW changed things so that you no longer have the simple cooler or hotter choice. I THINK the adjustment is in the "Compressor Run Time". When I opened that up, it was set to 30 seconds but you can enter a value from 0 to 240. I'm a chicken so I only bumped it to 45 seconds and will see what that does. Naturally the temps in SoCal took a nosedive so I'll have to wait a couple days to see how it works. I feel better going up in increments rather than cranking it all the way up and blowing something up.  Frank |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on May 26, 2017 9:30:22 GMT
Don, I just got the update on my OBD Eleven today and jumped right into the A/C module to adjust the temperature output. It appears that VW changed things so that you no longer have the simple cooler or hotter choice. I THINK the adjustment is in the "Compressor Run Time". When I opened that up, it was set to 30 seconds but you can enter a value from 0 to 240. I'm a chicken so I only bumped it to 45 seconds and will see what that does. Naturally the temps in SoCal took a nosedive so I'll have to wait a couple days to see how it works. I feel better going up in increments rather than cranking it all the way up and blowing something up. Frank Frank: I'm surprised! Are you saying that you couldn't find the entry in the CODING section of OBD11 software? It's almost on the last page of the long coding screens on my module. I hope that your choice to change an adaptation channel (instead of changing code) is correct, I suspect that it might not be so- happy to be proven wrong The default time of 30 seconds for Compressor run time is very short! Are you sure that the channel wasn't some like Duration of compressor run in, which might define the minimum cycle time- which is a safety mechanism to ensure the the compressor isn't switched ON/OFF quickly!! Don |
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frankm
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by frankm on May 26, 2017 14:37:19 GMT
Don,
My Long Coding menu in Air Conditioning is nothing like your screen shot. What I found in Adaptation is "Runtime For Compressor Run-In Basic Setting". There is another reference in the menu to Compressor Run-In but it offers no options. I did switch it back to 30 until I know for sure what I'm doing. What do you think?
Frank
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on May 26, 2017 22:35:38 GMT
Frank: I just don't know- I have the same channels on my module which was factory set for "hot country" and the values are:
Duration of compressor run in > 60 s
Runtime for compressor run-in basic setting > 120 s
Don
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2017 23:10:10 GMT
This is taken from my Seat Cupra from the UK (So not a hot country)
Backup
Control unit: 08 Air Conditioning
System description: Climatronic
Software number: 5F0907044G
Software version: 0705
Hardware number: 5F0907044G
Hardware version: H03
ODX name: EV_ACClimaBHBVW37X
ODX version: 003017
Backup name: air con 06 05 17
Long coding:
1.00004E+29
Adaptations:
Retention of driver's seat heater level:
not active
Runtime for compressor run-in basic setting:
120 s
Duration of compressor run in:
60 s
Stop release for start-stop function:
According to function requirements
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frankm
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by frankm on May 27, 2017 0:03:54 GMT
Don,
The duration for compressor run in on mine was set to 0 which I did not change. So the change from 30 seconds to 45 and back to 30 without ever turning on the AC gave me a NO AC and a code indicating that the compressor had not been initialized. OBD Eleven was unable to deal with that so off I went to the dealer to get that resolved. I'm afraid to even look to see what the values are now, but it does blow colder than before so I will leave well enough alone. Thanks for your help.
Frank
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Post by twocans on May 27, 2017 6:20:38 GMT
Confirming that on my 2017 GTI there is no temperature tuning option in long coding.
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frankm
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by frankm on May 30, 2017 4:02:31 GMT
Curiosity finally overwhelmed me and I just had to see what the dealer did to get the A/C working. They changed the Duration of compressor run-in from 0 to 60 seconds which apparently was overlooked at the factory. I wonder if that is why I got the compressor not initialized fault when I changed the run time back and forth. They also bumped the compressor run time basic setting from 30 seconds to 60. Just as info OBDEleven was not able to clear that fault and gave me the dreaded "Something went wrong. Try Again" message. Now that the compressor has been properly initialized, I may try extending the run time basic setting again since others with the hot country setting are set at 60/120. We'll see how that goes.
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Post by Murf on Jun 2, 2017 15:08:59 GMT
I also do not seem to have this setting available either in long coding or adaptation. October 2016 build MK7 GTI Sport.
I see options for blower and compressor but nothing related to "colder tuning cooling operation:.
Under MaxAC I am set to Version 1 and there are other versions, is this perhaps it?
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Post by Murf on Jun 2, 2017 16:13:59 GMT
I also do not seem to have this setting available either in long coding or adaptation. October 2016 build MK7 GTI Sport.
I see options for blower and compressor but nothing related to "colder tuning cooling operation:.
Under MaxAC I am set to Version 1 and there are other versions, is this perhaps it?
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Post by Scott on Jun 14, 2017 19:27:14 GMT
I have a 12/16 built 2017 SE and don't have the "colder tuning cooling operation" option either. Staying tuned.
Off topic, anyone able to get comfort windows to function on a 2017? Been trying to open/close windows with fob since I purchased my GTI in March.
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Post by crxgator on Jul 7, 2017 0:58:45 GMT
So I have a build date of 8/16 MY 17 Sport and I can't change it like others. I hastily changed the values for runtime and duration as to what people had on here and now my a/c doesn't "work" and I get the code thay the a/c had not been initialized. Now, if I put the dial to the defroster and have it on max a/c the ac will kick on and I can then control the ducting. But, if I turn off the blower I can't turn the ac back on unless I repeat those steps.
Besides going to the dealer what can I try? Some reset functions don't work and I wonder if it's because I don't have the correct security code. I tried all the usual ones including 20103 and nothing works.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jul 7, 2017 7:28:24 GMT
So I have a build date of 8/16 MY 17 Sport and I can't change it like others. I hastily changed the values for runtime and duration as to what people had on here and now my a/c doesn't "work" and I get the code thay the a/c had not been initialized. Now, if I put the dial to the defroster and have it on max a/c the ac will kick on and I can then control the ducting. But, if I turn off the blower I can't turn the ac back on unless I repeat those steps. Besides going to the dealer what can I try? Some reset functions don't work and I wonder if it's because I don't have the correct security code. I tried all the usual ones including 20103 and nothing works. crxgator: - I'm not sure what changes you have made - but have you looked in your history file and made ABSOLUTELY certain that the original settings have been put-back? Also, what is the EXACT error message?
Don
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Post by Crxgator on Jul 7, 2017 17:03:48 GMT
Don, The duration for compressor run in on mine was set to 0 which I did not change. So the change from 30 seconds to 45 and back to 30 without ever turning on the AC gave me a NO AC and a code indicating that the compressor had not been initialized. OBD Eleven was unable to deal with that so off I went to the dealer to get that resolved. I'm afraid to even look to see what the values are now, but it does blow colder than before so I will leave well enough alone. Thanks for your help. Frank DV52 this is what happened to mine as well. I'm trying to find a way to fix it without dealer involvement. |
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Post by Crxgator on Jul 7, 2017 21:40:56 GMT
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Post by streetrod60 on Jul 15, 2019 11:14:54 GMT
Is it the same with this setting?  |
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Post by kingtut on May 5, 2022 16:02:09 GMT
Hello all, resurrecting this post. I tried making this change to a 2010 Jetta but the "Cool Climate" option isn't showing up. It's this no longer available?
Unless someone has other ideas... the AC blows decent cold air but at low speed driving, it reverts to warm air.
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Post by geoffgoldblum on May 25, 2022 4:50:24 GMT
If it's switching between warm and cold sounds like a sensor or electrical issue. You have climate control or do u set it manually? Also could be engine isn't getting enough air at slow speeds to cool the evaporator so it's shutting AC off so it doesn't burn out. I'd start with cleaning out your evaporator and checking engine temperatures compare what gets reported vs actual temps, check if the blower is working properly, then fuses and sensors for corrosion.
Had this issue on my mom's Chevy the AC didn't want to go on even tho it wasn't leaking and compressor could spin. Checked resistors and temp sensors they were all corroded and junk. It thought the engine compartment was always like -140F or something like that so wouldn't let the AC turn on. Dealership wanted $200 to order in a new sensor and $1000+ in labour.
That makes no sense. You should never need to order in a temperature sensor. I have 40 different things that can sense temperature in my junk drawers. The $200 was just for the special plastic housing for a simple wire and the labor was because usually this is a hard spot to reach but it wasn't hard on this model. Took out the sensor, opened it up, took out the wire that is the sensor, replaced it with a wire out of a 15 year old reptile thermometer. Fixed. Cost $0. The wire probably isn't OEM specced but she doesn't have climate control it didn't need to be. It just needed to not read -140F at all times.
But in your case I think either the evaporator actually isn't getting enough air flow to cool at low speeds and needs a cleaning and maybe new blower, or everything is fine and some sensor thinks that it isn't.
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