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Post by alexglm on Nov 29, 2024 18:33:02 GMT
Hello everyone,
I have had my GTI for about 5 months now and have had no issues at all...until this week. The car is a Facelift 2017 right hand drive GTI (UK Market).
Started the car after work and everything was fine for about 20 minutes until I wanted to indicate right, at which point the car popped up 2 warning messages to check front right DRL and indicator, and the right indicator arrow on the dash started quickly blinking, as opposed to the normal rate.
When I got out to check, the right DRL was indeed not working. Having said that, when I lock/unlock the car, I can see that the outer portion of the DRL/indicator is working in the respective color for about 15 seconds and will then turn off. If i try to indicate right, it doesn't light up, however if i leave the parking light on, I can see the outer portion lit up in white. I could be very much wrong, but I think the first few days the inner portion was working as well, but that could just be my eyes playing tricks on me. I ran an OBD11 check, and it came up with 2 error codes (Status is static) for the right light control: C11BD01 and C11BF01 for the DRL and indicator respectively. I am quite new to car electrics, and would really appreciate any help!
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 29, 2024 23:31:29 GMT
Alex: Hi and welcome to the forum.
For problems like those that you describe on this car - it's prudent to supply a copy of a fresh SCAN report. To be clear- the SCAN needs to be complete AND more importantly, it needs to be unedited (meaning absolutely NO CHANGES - except that you can delete the VIN, if you want)
However, before you oblige - it's advantageous in these remote diagnostic situations that you activate Freeze-frame against your OBD11 account because there's lots of very useful fault-information hiding in this facility. So before creating the fresh SCAN, start by enabling Freeze-frame - read THIS
Next make a fresh SCAN by following the steps below. My apology if you know this stuff already (I suspect that you do).
I assume that you use the iOS software version of OBD11):
- Ignition-ON, engine-OFF
- Fire-up OBD11 Software - plug the dongle into the car's OBD port and connect to the iPhone
- After OBD11 has fully connected - press the big Tap to scan button in the Home screen below
 - Wait for the process to complete
To digitize the SCAN report so that you can post-up a copy in a new post - do this:
- Back on the Home screen above, select Garage/Vehicle (lower left side of screen)
- If you have registered more than ONE vehicle against your account - select the correct car.
- Scroll-down the list of options and select History.
- Follow the screenshots below
 - On the second screenshot, select Full scan and de-select ALL other options
- After you receive the email that you sent to yourself from the last screenshot - attach a copy of the SCAN file to a new forum post as an attachment (please don't dump the contents of the SCAN directly into your next post - use the attachment facility)
Don
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Post by alexglm on Nov 30, 2024 1:20:14 GMT
Hi Don, thank you very much for your reply and for the instructions. I have attached the full log using the freeze frame feature. Attachments:OBDeleven_Log.txt (8.82 KB)
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 30, 2024 20:36:57 GMT
Alex: thanks for the SCAN report.
Hmm........... I assume that this car had a different MIB retrofitted in early September this year which had hacked software. If so, I suggest that you bulk clear the errors because the SCAN contains errors that likely resulted from the fitment exercise. As for the Headlight matter, the SCAN reports an "electrical error" for the right-side Light-Control-Module (LCM). Alas this particular fault-code is a generalized error - so it requires further diagnostics to ascertain the cause. I assume that there has been no coding changes made to this car So, I'm not sure how you want to proceed. Do you intend to throw money at a professional workshop to fix this problem, or do envisage a DIY process? If the latter, how comfortable are you with a multi-meter and wiring diagrams?
Don
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Post by alexglm on Nov 30, 2024 20:57:33 GMT
Don: Thank you for having a look through the report! Yes, the old MIB died, so I purchased a new one and fitted it, that's why it's coming up with the respective error codes.
As for the Headlight, I am an engineer by trade, so have had some experience with multimeters and diagrams, however I have no schematics for the car. If you think it's worth a shot to check, and know roughly what to check (more importantly!), I can have a look.
I should add something else as well, the Light Control Right faults happened at the same time as the Central Electrics codes, it's just that I cleared them yesterday accidentally and they naturally reappeared, so the timestamp was different.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Nov 30, 2024 21:36:13 GMT
Alex: OK - I'm more than delighted to help if you want to try the DIY route - but I need more data to identify the type of headlight fittings on this car. One of the many problems with OBD11 SCAN-reports (IMO, of course) is that the detailed information for the module does NOT identify the lighting option in the wiring diagram (these options are called the "PR code").
So, I need to know the PR-code for the factory fitted headlights on this car. The normal way of doing this is via the vehicle data sticker (see example below) - which lists all the car options that were factory-built into the car on the VW production line.
Usually, the vehicle data sticker is either in the spare wheel well area in the luggage compartment, or on the lower part of the door pillar when the door is open. Please post-up a picture of the sticker if you want to proceed
Also, the fact that you cleared the original error codes changes my understanding of stuff. If you created a SCAN report before clearing the errors, there will be a copy of that SCAN in your History file. A copy would be nice!!!!
Don
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Post by alexglm on Nov 30, 2024 22:34:36 GMT
Dom: thank you for helping! I have attached the image, in case there are upload issues, the code that is circled in red is QI6. I am also attaching the first report I generated before deleting any message. Unfortunately it was done before I enabled Freeze-frame, so I am not sure whether it will be of any relevant use! It does remind me however of an event that happened last week. During a normal drive the driver's side door LED strip that glows red started flickering and would turn off. Some times, if i gently hit the door card it would come on, then flicker for a bit and go away again, other times it would stay off. This lasted for a few days, until it just came back on and it hasn't had issues since. Don't know whether it's related, but that's why you can see that error in the report. We had some awful weather with freezing temperatures and snow, so maybe that could have had an effect somehow!  |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Dec 1, 2024 3:39:31 GMT
Alex: alas your sticker didn't help- there isn't a PR code for headlights in your photo. Anyhow, Ive cobbled together a very cut-down version of the only LED Headlight option that I could find in my wiring diagrams - see below: I suspect that your car has a different version headlight, but it doesn't matter for this exercise - I'm hoping that the pin-out on the 14 x pin headlight connector will be the same.
You probably haven't seen the standard nomenclature for VW wiring diagrams before - so here's a very pithy explanation of how it works: Notice on the lower left side of my picture, the wire termination labelled T14K /8 KL15a - this is one of the pins on the headlight connector and the label means: - T14 = a connector with a Total of 14 x pins
- K = a simple designation to distinguish this connector from the myriad of other 14 x pin connectors on this car
- /8 = pin #8
- KL = short-hand for "Klemme" in German = Clamp, or more correctly, "Terminal" in English
So, I suggest that you confirm that the power supply is OK at the 14 x pin connector on the right-side headlight. As you can see in my diagram, the battery supply for the headlight is powered through fuse C36 and the it terminates on pin #8 & pin #4. KL15a means Terminal 15 (T15) - this is is a defined term in industry standard DIN 72552. I'm paraphrasing the DIN Standard - but T15 is a battery voltage that is switched-ON with Ignition-ON. So. confirm that the pins are live only when the ignition is ON. Then check the integrity of the 2 x earth pins.
If the power-supply pins check-out OK - you could try swapping the module(s) on the headlight fitting to opposite car sides (one at a time if there's more than one module). With each module swap, make a fresh SCAN report - if the errors follow a swapped module, you have confirmed that the module is faulty. Clearly if the fault remains in the right-side fitting - the fault is elsewhere!
Don
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