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Post by theories on Jul 11, 2024 4:26:52 GMT
So I’ve done the battery adaptation for my new Group 48 AGM battery from a standard flooded one. I just have a question about this Battery Architecture setting I found in the long coding of the Gateway module. It was previously set to EFB, but there are two options for AGM. Just curious if this does anything and if there are any differences between the AGM settings.
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jul 11, 2024 19:35:49 GMT
theories: Hi. If the new battery is AGM - the correct setting is FLEECE (don't use AGM Binary) . . Don
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Post by theories on Jul 17, 2024 2:30:11 GMT
theories : Hi. If the new battery is AGM - the correct setting is FLEECE (don't use AGM Binary) . . Don  Hi, DV52 Yes I have done the battery adaptation in the Gateway module in adaptations and set that to FLEECE. I was poking around some more in the Gateway module under long coding and noticed a setting called Battery Architecture that had three options (EFB, AGM, and AGM). There was no difference between the two AGM options and I was just curious if this did anything related to the battery itself. Regardless, I have another question for you. How would I go about the Alternator wiring on my MK7 Golf GTI? I am planning on putting a higher output alternator in my vehicle for car audio and I see that there are not a whole lot of options for this Make, Model, and Year. Nonetheless, I have found a supplier that will rebuild a 4 bolt padmount Bosch Alternator Part Number 06K903024A. Yet the wiring to the alternator to the starter and then the battery seems quite complicated and doesn't look like its just a simple run of wiring from the Alternator to the battery as I see lots of connectors out of the harness. Obviously I will be upgrading the wiring with 1/0 gauge as the new output of the alternator is 315 Amps. I guess my question mainly is can this wiring be upgraded? Can I just leave the OEM wiring in its place? Thanks  Wiring Harness for Alternator to the starter  |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jul 17, 2024 8:06:33 GMT
I was poking around some more in the Gateway module under long coding and noticed a setting called Battery Architecture that had three options (EFB, AGM, and AGM). There was no difference between the two AGM options and I was just curious if this did anything related to the battery itself. Really? I wasn't aware that the Gateway module's long-code string had software switches for "Battery Architecture" - very interesting!! What are the Byte/Bit references? Regardless, I have another question for you. How would I go about the Alternator wiring on my MK7 Golf GTI? I am planning on putting a higher output alternator in my vehicle for car audio and I see that there are not a whole lot of options for this Make, Model, and Year. Nonetheless, I have found a supplier that will rebuild a 4 bolt padmount Bosch Alternator Part Number 06K903024A. Yet the wiring to the alternator to the starter and then the battery seems quite complicated and doesn't look like its just a simple run of wiring from the Alternator to the battery as I see lots of connectors out of the harness. Obviously I will be upgrading the wiring with 1/0 gauge as the new output of the alternator is 315 Amps. I guess my question mainly is can this wiring be upgraded? Can I just leave the OEM wiring in its place? I can't identify the harness in your picture, but if it comes from the loom to the Alternator (called CX1) I suspect that it's part of the control mechanism from the Gateway module. On MQB platform cars like your mk7 - there are two separate LIN data buses connected to the Gateway module as per the network set-up below:  In my picture, J533 (Data bus diagnostic interface) is what OBD11 calls the Gateway module. As shown, J533 is the LIN master for the car's energy management system (EMS), the alternator and the multifunction steering wheel control unit J453. For your exercise, I suspect that LIN 1in my picture is the pertinent circuit. I'm not sure if you are aware of LIN control protocol - LIN means Local Integrated Network and it's a low-speed communication system that uses a single wire. Depending on whether this car has start/stop, it may have a J367 module embedded into the battery negative terminal - like this:  . Again, the wire loom is not clear, but given the small wire diameter, I'm guessing that the loom contains the control wires from the Gateway module to the voltage regulator that lives inside the Alternator. If, so adding a larger capacity alternator shouldn't affect the electrical demand on the LIN wire.
Finally, I include below the wiring -a very cut-down version of set-up for the Alternator and the Starter - for reference:
 Don |
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Post by theories on Jul 17, 2024 17:43:22 GMT
I was poking around some more in the Gateway module under long coding and noticed a setting called Battery Architecture that had three options (EFB, AGM, and AGM). There was no difference between the two AGM options and I was just curious if this did anything related to the battery itself. Really? I wasn't aware that the Gateway module's long-code string had software switches for "Battery Architecture" - very interesting!! What are the Byte/Bit references? I will look into this more and let you know what I find and provide screenshots from the app itself. Regardless, I have another question for you. How would I go about the Alternator wiring on my MK7 Golf GTI? I am planning on putting a higher output alternator in my vehicle for car audio and I see that there are not a whole lot of options for this Make, Model, and Year. Nonetheless, I have found a supplier that will rebuild a 4 bolt padmount Bosch Alternator Part Number 06K903024A. Yet the wiring to the alternator to the starter and then the battery seems quite complicated and doesn't look like its just a simple run of wiring from the Alternator to the battery as I see lots of connectors out of the harness. Obviously I will be upgrading the wiring with 1/0 gauge as the new output of the alternator is 315 Amps. I guess my question mainly is can this wiring be upgraded? Can I just leave the OEM wiring in its place? I can't identify the harness in your picture, but if it comes from the loom to the Alternator (called CX1) I suspect that it's part of the control mechanism from the Gateway module. On MQB platform cars like your mk7 - there are two separate LIN data buses connected to the Gateway module as per the network set-up below: In my picture, J533 (Data bus diagnostic interface) is what OBD11 calls the Gateway module. As shown, J533 is the LIN master for the car's energy management system (EMS), the alternator and the multifunction steering wheel control unit J453. For your exercise, I suspect that LIN 1in my picture is the pertinent circuit. I'm not sure if you are aware of LIN control protocol - LIN means Local Integrated Network and it's a low-speed communication system that uses a single wire. Depending on whether this car has start/stop, it may have a J367 module embedded into the battery negative terminal - like this: . Again, the wire loom is not clear, but given the small wire diameter, I'm guessing that the loom contains the control wires from the Gateway module to the voltage regulator that lives inside the Alternator. If, so adding a larger capacity alternator shouldn't affect the electrical demand on the LIN wire. Finally, I include below the wiring -a very cut-down version of set-up for the Alternator and the Starter - for reference: Don Wow this is perfect, that alternator loom wiring is part number 5Q0971230FJ, so I guess my other questions would be. I can keep the OEM wiring in place with the new alternator (since it will only draw whats needed) and add a run of new wire from the alternator to the battery without issue (1/0 gauge)? Since I don't have start/stop I can upgrade the ground wire as well and thats just mounted on the firewall in the engine bay. Now because I don't have start/stop, so I'm guessing that I don't have the J367 module either, correct? My ground wire to the battery doesn't have that module, just looks normal. As for Fuse Holder B (SB), is that referring to the multifuse strip or the normal fuses in the engine bay? It looks like the battery is also going to the same fuse the alternator loom wiring is connected to. This is what I mean by the multifuse strip - It does say on the website that the alternator is connected to SA 2 at 400 Amps. Which is quite the amperage..  I have heard as well that bypassing the Voltage Regulator throws a charging code (since the battery will float at around 13.5-14.4 depending on the outside temperature), is it possible to code this out on the obdeleven if that does occur? |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jul 17, 2024 23:29:09 GMT
hmm.......... OK - now I better understand!!
I'm sure that you understand the "theory" part of your exercise: If the ONLY reason for enhancing the alternator capacity is to feed the extra load from the new audio equipment - then any added copper needs to follow the electrical path for the increased amperes!
So, if you connected the power-components of the new audio equipment directly to +ve battery terminal, then any enhancement to wire-size should replicate the same direction for the ampere flow!
It's still not clear to me whether using the wiring harness from the new alternator is easier (or not) than installing new copper cables - so this is really your decision. However, I'm not sure if you are aware that the factory bolts that are shown in your picture of the SA fuse-block in your reply are one-time-only use. Meaning that if you remove ANY of these bolts, they will need to be replaced with NEW (OEM) bolts
Of course the earth wire needs to be enhanced to meet the specifications of the extra electrical load regardless!
Don
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