2010 VW Golf Wagon 2.5L Random stalling issue

Well, after 3 days and about 4 hours in total driving time working flawlessly with no codes after replacing the N80 evap purge valve..., the Golf started stalling today after about 1 hour of driving doing errands in city driving.

First, it "half-stalled" as it did before (half second engine hesitation, then goes on) on about 3 occasions. All these occurrences were while accelerating after coming to a complete (or semi-complete) stop. Each time, the engine half-stalled twice within about 2 seconds, then goes on without problems for a few minutes. This happened about 3-4 times.

A few minutes after these 3-4 half-stalls, it stalled completely after stopping at a red light. Was not able to restart the car right away, would crank but not start. Then, at the red light, it started and ran (could rev the engine with the gas pedal while in park or neutral), but it repeatedly stalled as soon as I pressed the gas after putting it in drive, so basically EXATLY the same behaviour I have observed in the past, without any modifications, other than, this time, there was no "all lights out" episodes. 

After a few of these complete stalls, was able to drive the car to the next light, about 200m away, but it did the same thing at the next light, and at the next stop.  Finally succeeded in parking the car after driving with a few more half-stalls.

I did an "all systems" scan on the car (while it was running).

Got some interesting codes, some completely new:

2 Engine Control Module Codes
P0444 EVAP Purge Control Valve (N80): Circuit Open (1092) STORED
(since this is "stored", might just be the code I already mentioned, a few posts back)

P0106 Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal (262) STORED
(this might simply be a code generated after I installed the new N80 valve and I ran the engine with top (air filter) off and all hoses disconnected from the throttle body - wanted to see how the throttle body plate moved while a friend was pressing the gas)

Now it gets interesting...:
1 Transmission Control Module Code
1314 Engine Control Module: No Communications
STORED
1 Transmission Control Module Code
1314 Engine Control Module: No Communications SPORADIC


Not sure what to make of this last one. I haven't had it before.

Finally, after leaving the car parked in the cold about two hours, I was able to start it and drive it, once again without a problem, to my mechanic's garage about 3 km's away!

Your getting into areas I have no experience with. Why it would run for 4 days without issue, and then suddenly throw those new codes, I have no ideas. That 1314 code looks like nasty to analyze.

Make very sure to clear ALL the history codes after every start so you can see new from old.

Any chance it didn't rain for the 4 good days and then rained before all these new problems?

Sorry I can't help. Google time and be very logical about the changes you make.

Googled p106. That's the second cheapest and second most common problem. PCV positive crankcase ventilation fvale failure . Again the Humble mechanic has a video on it. And it's inside that stupid plastic motor cover you removed and ran without. Are you sure it is well hose connected?

I'm back in Canada at the end of March. I can photo my car the so you can see exactly which part is perhaps the offending relay. I tried googling but with multiple models and 500,00P GOLFS BUILT A YEAR FOR 4 YEARS. Well just too many variables.

Ya I would ne Er try to do a ecm replacement. Yes, the relaysar usually cheap and easy, if you know which ones to try. The pin out and circuit drawing on the relay MUST match.

Hi there    WHICH ENGINE DO YOU HAVE ?  

These cars tend to accumulate small problems. Unfortunately they never seem to offer simple diagnosis.   If your car has been used for several years and has been service ignored, you will have a heck of a time finding the " real " problem.  Likely there is more than just one problem. So. 

Step one.  Disconnet the battery ground connection for 20 seconds, reconnect it and start the car.  Now get a list of ALL the OBD error codes.  Take a photo and post it here..
Just like the old days, the most common stalling, rough running, problems is/are vacuum leaks.   

Step two.
There is a really usefull YouTube called the Humble Mechanic.  Pick out the ones that apply to your engine and invest the time looking at them.  
Especially PCV replacement. Mass Flow cleaning.  

Step three.
Check for the easy free items
Is the battery well connected and less than 10 years old.
Has the vacuum pump been eliminated ( hopefully NOT )
Is the gas cap sealing perfectly. ( Really, that's the number one vacuum leaker)
Look for loose hoses. Loose electrical wire connections. 

A couple of VW special items.  If your battery is not charging well the engine will suddenly have a fast idle when at a red street light.
By disconnecting the battery you put the car back to its new at the factory settings. If it's hard to start you are definitely looking for something not as it was at the factory. Broken, loose or worn out items. Likey cracked hoses, loose connections, broken item in the PCV system . Possibly spark plugs, or coils. 

But don't start spending money yet.. GET AND POST THE CODES
DANM