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Post by mk75final on Aug 19, 2023 8:54:36 GMT
Hi Guys,
I have an Ausssie 2020 Mk7.5 R Final Edition with Dynaudio. I previously had a Mk7 Golf R with standard factory audio, which I upgrade with a DSP, amp, front split and sub. It was awesome! I removed all the upgraded gear from my old Mk7 before selling it and am looking to install in my Mk7.5. Issue I have is the upgraded Dynaudio system, which uses a MOST connector to the J525 module/amp. I'm looking for coding to revert to a standard factory stereo setup so I can pick up the front right/left output signals (4 wires) from the head unit in the glovebox, which will enable me to install my gear the same way I had it in my Mk7.
I realise not many people look to downgrade their Dynaudio, but being a bit of an audiophile, the Dynaudio just doesn't cut it. It's a bit of a matter of going backwards to go forwards.
Many thanks in advance for any/all help. :-)
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Post by vwjap on Aug 19, 2023 15:58:58 GMT
Did you take a backup of your old mk7? Maybe use that coding
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Aug 20, 2023 0:48:46 GMT
Interesting project because as you say "not many people look to downgrade their Dynaudio"!!
So, I suspect that the coding changes to the hex5F module won't be a problem - but I'm not quite sure about the "physical" aspects of the exercise.
As a starting point, it would be helpful if you posted-up the existing long-code string for the hex5F module on the Golf R.
My hunch is that the following coding changes will be required to the hex5F module: - Byte 04 = FF
- Byte 05 = 00
- Byte 06 = 00
- Byte 07 = 00
- Byte 11 = 01 (software switch to turn-ON internal sound system)
- Byte 19, Bit 5=0 (this software switch turns-OFF MOST - so make this change ONLY if this car does NOT have a digital dash)
the changes suggested above should switch -ON the 8 x speaker pins as shown below - which are now disabled because the speakers are connected currently to the external amplifier. This should provide the audio signal connections for the DSP amp!
However, this is also where I suspect additional work will be needed because once the coding above is completed - the MIB will expect to see an electrical load from speaker coils on each of the internal amplifier channels. Without the expected electrical load, errors will occur! Not sure if this has been factored into your plans
Don
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Post by mk75final on Aug 21, 2023 11:14:12 GMT
Hi Don,
Thanks for the info mate! I was hoping you would reply to this one - I've read a bunch of your replies in the other threads while looking for an answer to this. Man, do you know your stuff!!! :-)
I've just pulled the Long Coding String for the 5F Multimedia module from my car with Dynaudio and got the following:
027310080000000041510002000808001F0107F601200402DF
My car does have the digital dash, so I'll skip point 6 of your list below and keep MOST active.
Not too concerned about errors. I used to get 4 'open circuit' errors for the front speakers in my old Mk7 with this setup, but it didn't seem in impact anything else. They went away and didn't return after I reinstalled the stock stereo.
I pulled out the control unit in the glovebox of my Mk7.5 R and there are no speaker wires to Socket "N" in your diagram, so I'll need to add pins to this plug to pick up the signals. I've never done this before, so might take some experimenting. Does anyone know what type of pins they are or what I should be looking for?
Thanks again for the help - very much appreciated!
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Post by mk75final on Aug 21, 2023 11:19:02 GMT
Did you take a backup of your old mk7? Maybe use that coding Hi vwjap, That's a great idea, though I'm not very experienced with long coding changes and don't know if you can permanently stuff something up if you get it wrong! Here's a comparison between the long coding for the two: 027310080000000041510002000808001F0107F601200402DF - 2020 Mk7.5 Golf R with Dynaudio and digital dash02730008FF00000051510001000808001F0207D601200100C7 - 2016 Mk7 Golf R with standard audio and analog dash
Hope that helps me, or someone else looking to do the reverse and upgrade to Dynaudio. :-)
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Post by vwjap on Aug 21, 2023 16:09:49 GMT
Do you have android or iOS?
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Post by mk75final on Aug 22, 2023 1:24:52 GMT
Do you have android or iOS? Android. Does that change anything?
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Aug 22, 2023 1:58:08 GMT
Many thanks for the generous words - but there is lots and lots of stuff that I don't know!!
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the long-code strings for the MIBs on the 2 x cars:
Mk7.5 Mk7 Byte Hex Binary Hex Binary 00 02 00000010 02 00000010 01 73 01110011 73 01110011 02 10 00010000 00 00000000 03 08 00001000 08 00001000 04 00 00000000 FF 11111111 05 00 00000000 00 00000000 06 00 00000000 00 00000000 07 00 00000000 00 00000000 08 41 01000001 51 01010001 09 51 01010001 51 01010001 10 00 00000000 00 00000000 11 02 00000010 01 00000001 12 00 00000000 00 00000000 13 08 00001000 08 00001000 14 08 00001000 08 00001000 15 00 00000000 00 00000000 16 1F 00011111 1F 00011111 17 01 00000001 02 00000010 18 07 00000111 07 00000111 19 F6 11110110 D6 11010110 20 01 00000001 01 00000001 21 20 00100000 20 00100000 22 04 00000100 01 00000001 23 02 00000010 00 00000000 24 DF 11011111 C7 11000111
Note: Remember that Binary numbers are read from right-to-left! So, Bit 0 is the right-most digit and Bit 7 is the left-most digit
As shown in my table the Mk7 has: - Byte 04 = FF
- Byte 05 = 00
- Byte 06 = 00
- Byte 07 = 00
- Byte 11 = 01 (software switch to turn-ON internal sound system)
- Byte 19, Bit 5=0 (this software switch turns-OFF MOST - so make this change ONLY if this car does NOT have a digital dash)
This is exactly the same as my previous suggestion.
So - change the long-code on the Mk7.5 as above for 1. and 5.. No need to change 2., 3. and 4. because these Bytes are already correct. Don't change 6.
As for your question about the speaker terminals on the MIB housing, I'm sure that you can buy these from your handy-dandy VW dealer - probably at a price approaching the annual budget of a small African nation!! .
However, if your MIB doesn't have the VW "insert" (see below) that holds the bunch of 8 x terminals for the speaker wires, then you are probably better served by NOT going OEM (I reckon).
If this was my car and given that you need to connect to only 4 x speaker terminals on the MIB (from the DSP Amp), I would make-up my own loom.
The speaker terminals on the MIB housing have a width of 3 mm. So, I suggest that you go to Jaycar and buy a packet of Phone Type Crimp Lugs (see HERE)
These are NOT the OEM lugs - but they suit terminals with a width of 3.2 mm and 2.5 mm wire. Insulated with heat-shrink tubing, I reckon that these lugs will be perfect for the task (and it will cost only $3.25)!!
Don
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Post by mk75final on Aug 22, 2023 8:06:04 GMT
Hi Don,
Thanks again for all the help. I checked again this afternoon and my MIB doesn't have the insert, but has easy access to spade pins at for the speaker outputs, so should be simple to make up a loom with the lugs you linked. I was thinking they would be really fine pins, not the chunkier ones it does have, so I'll be sure to drop in to Jaycar when I'm next going past. Many thanks for the link.
While I had the MIB unit out, I thought I'd test the coding and see if I got any voltage from the pins once the coding was changed. The new coding accepted no problems! However, after the coding change, I tested the speaker output from the MIB unit with a multimeter and got zero volts. I also didn't lose audio - everything remained unchanged after the coding was accepted, with no change to sound output at all.
The Byte 11 change involved changing from "Sound_System_external_MOST" (standard '02' coding) to "Sound_System_internal" (new '01' coding, like my old Mk7 R). I was expecting to lose audio when making this change, as I assumed this would disable MOST and activate the speaker outputs on the MIB unit. I did this in combination with the coding change to Byte 4, which involved changing all 8 bits labelled "byte_4_Channel_X_XX" (with 'X' being 1 through 4 and 'XX' being either 'HT' or 'TT') from "not installed" to "installed", giving me the 'FF' coding for Byte 4. Long coding after the changes was:
02731008FF00000041510001000808001F0107F601200402DF
Do these changes take a while to apply, or should they be instant? I did try ignition off and back on again, but this was done pretty quickly, so I'm not sure the MIB unit would have completely powered down. Not saying it didn't work - I just didn't get the result I was expecting from the coding change, but I'm sure there's something I'm missing, either in my process, or my understanding of what I'm changing and how it all works. :-)
Thanks again. Andy
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Post by vwjap on Aug 22, 2023 10:49:43 GMT
The reason I asked about android is it does have discriptors telling you what the switches do whereas ios doesn’t
If you wanna reset the unit (like ignition off for 10 minutes) just press and hold the on/off button for 10 seconds, that will force the new settings to be implemented
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Aug 23, 2023 0:26:53 GMT
Andy: Hmm....... I'm surprised that you don't get volts at the quad-lock connectors with the changes implemented - but try vwjap MIB reset suggestion and check again
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Post by mk75final on Aug 23, 2023 4:31:05 GMT
Hi Gents,
That seems to have done it! After holding the on/off button for 10 seconds, the head unit restarted and I lost audio. Checked the voltage from the speaker outputs and got a couple of volts. Switched the multimeter to hertz and it was jumping all over the place, and stopped moving if I paused the audio. I've even got speaker open circuit faults now, which is exactly what I was hoping for! It seems we have a signal from the speaker outputs.
I'm going to grab some of those connectors from Jaycar and make up a quick dummy loom to one speaker as final proof of concept, but I'm confident. Will report back once I've tested.
Thanks again guys!
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Post by mk75final on Aug 26, 2023 6:15:16 GMT
Great success guys! Grabbed the spade connectors, made the loom, tested with a speaker and it's all working great.
Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the info provided. You've turned this project from something I was dreading into something I can't wait to get stuck in to. Thanks again!
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