|
|
Post by dragosh1205 on Jan 27, 2023 9:43:19 GMT
Hello. I have been getting these 2 error codes recently and i was wondering what might be the problem.
From what i can read, supply voltage and function restriction by engine control module are related to one another? And both are related to the voltage? In that case could it be related to the battery? I think it is a bit on the low end or nearing it's end and it is giving me some signs every now and then. Signs like delayed turning on the headlights (i rotate the switch and the xenons only start 2-5 seconds later), or some longer cranking until engine starts (3-4 cranks instead of 1-2, don't know how to explain, typical low battery signs).
Would replacing the battery fix the 2 error codes?
Side note: the scan was done on a cold engine.
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jan 27, 2023 23:58:42 GMT
hmm....... of course anything is possible and conducting remote diagnostics on a forum like this is far from ideal - but I'm not sure that I would conclude that the battery needs replacement based on these 2 x trouble codes alone! Yes, both of these DTCs may be (NOT "are") related to voltage problems, but the cause isn't necessarily the result of a failing battery!!
These "function restriction" errors might have been caused because too many different demands were placed on the car's rail voltage at the one time (i.e. just happenstance)!! The fault status "intermittent" in the freeze frame data kind-of supports this as being the likely reason for the errors - IMO, of course! And, the freeze frame data also confirms that at the time of these errors Voltage terminal 30: 14.120 V. "Terminal 30" is the car's native battery volts (i.e. "hard" battery volts). Doesn't appear to be too bad albeit at the time of the faults, the alternator would have have been bolstering the car's battery volts! So, as a suggestion - rather than immediately throwing your hard earned money at a Battery supplier and if this was my car, I would clear these errors and I would keep a watchful eye on any further instance of similar errors - in the future!
Don
|
|
|
|
Post by dragosh1205 on Jan 28, 2023 15:36:39 GMT
The first time i got a check engine light. Naturally i scanned everything with OBD11 and i got these 2 errors. I cleared them, the check engine light disappeared and all seemed fine. For a day or two. Then when i scanned it again before doing some adaptation, the faults appeared again, but there was no more check engine light this time. This is when i sent the reports to my mail and when i had a bit of time i posted them here. For the voltage in the reports, you are correct, the car is running so the battery is on the alternator that's why the voltage value is as such. If the car was not running, i am sure i would get much lower voltages. I didn't get a chance to do a long distance run for the last 2 weeks so the battery might not be at a good charge level. It's also gotten colder in my country the last few days. I'm no expert in these things though. For the battery, i know it's been having some issues for the last 2 months, specifically cold weather issues and signs of age. As you say though, it might not be the battery, but i think it's the first thing that comes to mind. If some other info might help, i can provide it  The other interesting thing is when i start my headlights. If i turn the knob before i start the engine, the lights don't start right away and it takes somewhere around 5-6 seconds until they light up. If i start the engine first and then rotate the light knob, they light up after 2-3 seconds. This strange since in the summer they would light up immediately after rotating the knob, even with the engine not turned on. Isn't this another sign that the battery is about to give up? Or might it be something else? Thanks! |
|
|
|
Post by dv52 (Australia) on Jan 29, 2023 1:18:15 GMT
hmm........ not sure what type of headlight lamps are installed on this car and I'm also unaware of the seasonal variations in ambient temperature - but again, an additional 3 second delay in headlight illumination between summer/winter conditions doesn't sound that bad (particularly if your car has HID lamps). As I'm sure you will know and regardless of age, battery performance is critically dependent on battery temperature and winter temperature also affects other stuff like engine-oil viscosity (and therefore battery cranking current from the starter motor) and various heater/thermostat operations But techno-babble aside, I suspect from your additional words, that I may be misunderstanding your objective - I'm focusing on the efficiency of replacing a battery, "just in time" and you appear to be addressing a persistent (and nagging, I assume) suspicion that your aging battery will potentially fail -leaving you stranded.
If I'm correct (and I apologize if I'm not), the decision point for our different objectives is ostensibly a risk-management matter. And as I'm sure that you will agree, risk management decisions are very much driven by the decision maker's value proposition!! In your case, it may well be advantageous (for peace-of-mind) to just replace this battery anyway because doing so addresses the "what-if" scenarios associated with a failed battery - maybe? Plus, you have the added fact that this is an old battery that likely is approaching its used-by date to support the replacement decision!!
Of course the proper way to handle ALL risk management decisions is via information and you could get your battery tested to confirm (or not) your suspicions. My suggestion if you do this is to take the car to a reputable service agent who's principal motivation is NOT simply profit (i.e. a service provider motive to sell you a new battery, rather than an honest desire to test your old battery)!!
Don
|
|
|
|
Post by dragosh1205 on Jan 29, 2023 11:56:42 GMT
hmm........ not sure what type of headlight lamps are installed on this car and I'm also unaware of the seasonal variations in ambient temperature - but again, an additional 3 second delay in headlight illumination between summer/winter conditions doesn't sound that bad (particularly if your car has HID lamps). I have the normal, basic xenon lamps, the ones with halogen DRLs. Doesn't sound bad, it's just something i noticed and thought was worth mentioning if it added to resolving my faults. Anyways, my main objective is to figure out what those errors might be and to eliminate them. This has been the whole point from the start. Getting stranded is not a concern so my focus is purely to find what causes the 2 faults and fix them. On a side note: the battery talk has just been me providing details as to what other symptoms my car has and what might (my speculation - not an expert opinion) cause the faults in the first place. I would not want to change the battery unless I absolutely must and there is no other option. As you say, it's not very cost efficient to do that before eliminating other, cheaper things that might be a factor. I will get it checked though, and replaced if need be. As for risk, well, if it doesn't start i do have the option of jumpstarting it. My parking spot is on a hill, and from there i can take it to the nearest service and replacing it. Being stranded somewhere is not something that will happen soon. Thanks for all advice so far Don. UPDATE: I have checked the battery just to be sure, and it is definitely bad. It has ~12.0V when i check it and when i start the car it drops to 8V before the alternator starts powering it to 14V. From what i read it should be ~12.6V or more when checked and it should not go below 10V when starting before the alternator starts. Henceforth i will drag it on as much as i can and i'll will replace it whenever it's completely done for. At the moment it still starts albeit a bit harder. After replacing it will check for the faults again and see if they show up again. |
|
