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Post by phxcliff on Aug 4, 2022 23:05:27 GMT
2017 Jetta 1.4
The wastegate actuator arm has broken and I will be replacing the unit.
I understand that the new unit must be calibrated to the car, and this can be done via OBD11.
My question is, where and how do I do this calibration?
Thank you
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Post by bpagent86 on Apr 25, 2023 1:22:55 GMT
I just had to do the same thing. Did you ever find out an answer?
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Post by vwguy75 on Mar 2, 2024 21:34:47 GMT
If you still need the info, the technical term for what you would be doing are wastegate adaptations. You are setting the upper and lower stops for the wastegate actuator. I.e. open here, close here. You should find what you need to do this under the adaptations section of the engine control unit, subsection ‘Activation of start-stop function.’ You’ll have to have pro access though and it really can be a ***** to get it set right. Honestly, if you can find a shop that will set the adaptations for you after you install the new turbo or actuator yourself, you’ll be better off. Fair warning, if the actuator arm snapped, the wastegate inside the turbo probably isn’t going to function properly anymore and you’ll need a new turbo. Either way, after the install, take it to a tech if you can, just keep the car under 2800 rpm and you won’t build enough boost to worry about and the N75 will recirculate it so it shouldn’t damage any new parts. A decent shop should be able to recode within an hour or two once your car is in. Otherwise, you’ll have to try and find a copy of the TSM for your year, and find the voltage ranges you are allowed to test in the adaptations for the upper and lower stops. If it abandons the test, double check every thing you did under the hood, make sure all the connectors and harnesses are perfect, pull out your trusty multimeter if you have to in order to test the values running to the pins, (they’ll be in the TSM), and once you are certain, run the adaptations again. If it abandons again due to safety, then you’ll need to go down a complete other rabbit hole of values in a separate system (either the intake or part of the turbo/exhaust if I’m remembering right). It’s all a big task. If you can afford it, and you aren’t already familiar with these kinds of systems, you’d be better off taking it to a shop, or worst case a dealer, just don’t let them try and sell you on a bunch of extra BS. Get the new gaskets and lines. Better to shell out the 2500-3500 for the job than to blow your turbo and probably need a new engine for the car. Happy to help how I can. Good luck
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