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Post by loxwil on Sept 4, 2023 10:48:37 GMT
Again, I have no idea what style lamps are on these fittings but the Leuchte-sets shown in your last post are intended for LED style DRLs ONLY and they are only half the story because they are missing the mating DRL power-supply Leuchte-sets.You showed me these copies of Leuchte-sets in my old thread. So I thought to myself that maybe you had access to the other Leuchte-sets (Leuchte4TFL LB4 & Leuchte5 TFL RB32) on a "Yankee" Golf. Thanks |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 12, 2023 20:52:05 GMT
I found this information while researching people who wanted to disable sidemarkers on US spec Golf MK7.5. 09 - Central Electrics 16 - Security code 31347 10 - Adaptations Leuchte26NSL LA72 "Lasttyp 26" set to “not active” (default: “43-allgemeine LED”). Regarding the amber side indicator light on the front headlights, these would be controlled with the "Leuchte26". On my Golf EU "Leuchte 26" (pin 72) act on the left rear fog lights. I confirmed this on the wriring diagram and OBD. See screenshot. (fog lamp that the Golf 7.5 us sepc does'nt have).  Can this explain why during my electrical connection test of the NA headlight the amber sidemarker turns off after 20 seconds? Would that mean that it's powered (inside the lighthousing) but after the computer detects it, it considers that it has no reason to be on? Thanks Lox |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Sept 12, 2023 23:01:36 GMT
huh? I don't understand!
On your car Leuchte26NSL LA72 controls the rear fog light. This means that on your car, the wire from pin #72 Socket A on the central electrics module is terminated on the rear fog light. This wire has absolutely no connection with the headlights.
It may well be correct that Leuchte26NSL LA72 does control the headlight side marker lamps on NAR cars - but how can this wire possibly affect the operation of any headlight lamp on your car?
Don
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Post by loxwil on Sept 13, 2023 11:09:32 GMT
Maybe because my car is not supposed to have the front sidemarkers factory fitted. So pin "72 on the central electrics module was used for another assignment. In the case of EU Golfs, this pin #72 is used to power the left rear fog lights which the NA Golfs do not have. I am attaching the wiring diagram for the left inner taillightt for information. So in my case regarding the amber sidemarkers that I want to turn on, I guess I'll have to power these inside the headlight in order to be able to control them. I guess this is the only way but it turns out to be complicated. |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 14, 2023 21:54:18 GMT
Also on this wiring diagrams below that I had already shared (sorry WD are not very clear) I notice pin #72 from J519 (which I though the one that controls the front side markers) is terminated following lines 110 & 115 on pin #2 of MX1 and MX2. But there is no pin 2 on the NA headlight electrical socket so I think that my information found on the internet is not correct or they may only be valid for full LED type upper headlight models. I can't interpret this diagram correctly but this wire doesn't seem to be terminated on a lamp or am I wrong? They seem to have something to do with the range control but we already know that the NA headlights are not equipped with this adjustment motor. THANKS   |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Sept 14, 2023 23:56:56 GMT
loxwil : Yes, we established many posts ago " that my [your] information found on the internet is not correct". This revelation should not be new in your investigations.
We also discussed the purpose of pin#2 on your EU headlights and the missing pin#2 on the US headlights many posts ago.
You really DO need to get the correct wiring diagrams for the US headlights. Unless you have the correct information - these posts are just more guesses (which aren't helpful). You can find the wiring diagrams for NAR vehicles on the USA ERWIN site (you will need to buy a 1 x day subscription and then you should download the "Basic Equipment" .PDF document to your PC/laptop)
I'm happy to look through the correct wiring diagrams - when you have them (in English-please). Put a copy in a PM. I suspect that I will need the complete set of diagrams to trace the many wires to their ultimate terminations.
Don
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Post by loxwil on Sept 16, 2023 22:36:30 GMT
I got a broken NA headlight and after testing it and following the internal wires I noticed that these amber side markers are powered by pin #1 of the headlights on "Yankee" Golf . This analysis corresponds to the diagram below. Starting from pin #72 of J519 and following diagram line 110 and 115, this wires are terminated on pin #1 ( depending on the equipment) on the NA headlights. ( circled in green on the diagrams). This corresponds to the NA headlights ( which are only equipped with 7 pins) and which do not have range control. Following many identical responses, these side markers are actually controlled (OBD) in pairs by the "Leuchte set 26NSL LA72" on the "Yankee" Golf 7.5. I can't do that on my European Golf So I'm going to have to pair the power supply to these side markers inside the headlight with another wire. Either with the wire which powers pin #10 (if the section is not too small to additionally support the power supply of the 3 small diodes (per side) or with the wire which powers pin #6. For you (without committing), what would be the best option? I guess that these small diodes should not "overload" the wire because they are both powered together from factory by a 0.5 sq-mm from J519. I have one more question and if you could help me interpret the area I circled in red on the diagram, I would be grateful! Why does wire coming from pin #5 from J519 first passes through a coupling point (with the wire coming from pin #72) of J519 then continues to MX1 and powers as expected pin #6 of the headlight (low beam), but for MX2, wire from pin #1 of J519 directly powers pin #6 (low beam) ? What is the reason for this coupling point? Thanks for your help !   |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Sept 17, 2023 22:34:55 GMT
I got a broken NA headlight and after testing it and following the internal wires I noticed that these amber side markers are powered by pin #1 of the headlights on "Yankee" Golf . This analysis corresponds to the diagram below. Starting from pin #72 of J519 and following diagram line 110 and 115, this wires are terminated on pin #1 ( depending on the equipment) on the NA headlights. ( circled in green on the diagrams). This corresponds to the NA headlights ( which are only equipped with 7 pins) and which do not have range control. Following many identical responses, these side markers are actually controlled (OBD) in pairs by the "Leuchte set 26NSL LA72" on the "Yankee" Golf 7.5. I can't do that on my European Golf So I'm going to have to pair the power supply to these side markers inside the headlight with another wire. Either with the wire which powers pin #10 (if the section is not too small to additionally support the power supply of the 3 small diodes (per side) or with the wire which powers pin #6. For you (without committing), what would be the best option? I guess that these small diodes should not "overload" the wire because they are both powered together from factory by a 0.5 sq-mm from J519. OK, if you are now certain that the new wiring diagram in this latest post is indeed the correct wiring diagram for the USA headlight fittings - good news!! Instead of making the connection between pin #1 and pin #10 "inside the headlight" - maybe consider making the connection outside the headlights. If this was my car, I would splice into the factory wiring loom (NOT INTO THE HEADLIGHT, ITSELF). As we determined early in this long thread - on your car, the black/blue wire that's on pin #1 for the loom-side headlight connector is currently terminated on EX14 (Headlight range control and instrument illumination regulator). But your US headlights don't use EX14! So, cut the blue/black wire and join the connector-side of the severed wire to green/black wire that is terminated on pin#10. This wiring change will join together pin#1 and pin #10 on the headlight fitting!! Of course insulate the not connected end of the blue/black wire that is cut and that is ultimately still connected to EX14.
I have one more question and if you could help me interpret the area I circled in red on the diagram, I would be grateful! The USA wiring diagram simply says that the two wires in your red circle is routed via the coupling point called TIUL (it's wrongly called "TUL" on the circled part - but it's correctly identified as TIUL on the right-side list on your picture).
The location of TIUL on a left-hand drive car is shown below - the wiring diagram says that the terminations for the 2 x wires are made on the "C" connector  Why does wire coming from pin #5 from J519 first passes through a coupling point (with the wire coming from pin #72) of J519 then continues to MX1 and powers as expected pin #6 of the headlight (low beam), but for MX2, wire from pin #1 of J519 directly powers pin #6 (low beam) ? What is the reason for this coupling point? Thanks for your help ! There is ONE thing that you can be certain-of for EVERY wire-routing decision that VW makes for their cars - the route will ALWAYS (repeat "always" for emphasis) result is the minimum amount of copper in the car!! I don't know the answer to your question - but I suspect that it is directly related to the imperative to lower the cost of production on the factory assembly-line |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 18, 2023 7:35:17 GMT
OK, if you are now certain that the new wiring diagram in this latest post is indeed the correct wiring diagram for the USA headlight fittings - good news!! Thank you for your response, it helps me a lot. |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 18, 2023 7:51:44 GMT
and join the connector-side of the severed wire to green/black wire that is terminated on pin#10 Do you mean the grey/black wire ? (on us diagram). ---- (on my car, yellow/white). What I am sure of, on my car, the wire that is terminated on pin #10 of the headlight connector (the yellow and white one) is 0.35 sq-mm according to visual observations and according to the EU electrical wiring diagram posted earlier . Isn't this section of wire too "small" to power and support an additional source inside the headlight (even if as I said they are only 3 small diodes per side) ? Otherwise, I had thought of this other solution to power pin #10 of the NA headlight. I could use the wire that is terminated on pin 4 and code the Leuchte set's 4TFL LB4 & 5 TFL RB32 to act only as "Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht; Positionslicht; Begrenzungslicht)" Of course the white daytime running lights will no longer be operational but I will be able to operate, for example, my fog lights at the bottom of the EU bumper as DRL. |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 18, 2023 8:10:48 GMT
Thank you for your time and for the information provided !
Later can I delete this thread or summarize it more clearly to remove the incorrect information?
I don't know the forum rules on this subject.
Lox
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Sept 18, 2023 21:32:48 GMT
Do you mean the grey/black wire ? (on us diagram). ---- (on my car, yellow/white). hmm.......there are far too many wiring diagrams in this thread!! I mean whatever color wire happens to be terminated on pin#10 What I am sure of, on my car, the wire that is terminated on pin #10 of the headlight connector (the yellow and white one) is 0.35 sq-mm according to visual observations and according to the EU electrical wiring diagram posted earlier . Isn't this section of wire too "small" to power and support an additional source inside the headlight (even if as I said they are only 3 small diodes per side) ? In an ideal world - yes, the wire size would be 0.5 sq-mm. But this project is VERY non-OEM Otherwise, I had thought of this other solution to power pin #10 of the NA headlight. I could use the wire that is terminated on pin 4 and code the Leuchte set's 4TFL LB4 & 5 TFL RB32 to act only as "Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht; Positionslicht; Begrenzungslicht)" Pin #4 is the DRL. If you do what you suggest - won't you lose the DRL function? Of course the white daytime running lights will no longer be operational but I will be able to operate, for example, my fog lights at the bottom of the EU bumper as DRL. Why do you want to do this? Doesn't your fog lights already operate correctly? Thank you for your time and for the information provided ! Later can I delete this thread or summarize it more clearly to remove the incorrect information? I don't know the forum rules on this subject. Lox "I don't know the forum rules on this subject" as well!! |
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Post by loxwil on Sept 19, 2023 6:21:16 GMT
In an ideal world - yes, the wire size would be 0.5 sq-mm. But this project is VERY non-OEM It's true. But I want to be careful whith de power supply to the headlight and I don't want to overheat the wire terminated on pin #10. So I was thinking of powering pin #1 using an independent wire (for example the one terminated on pin #4) but then of course I would lose the DRL functions. |
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Post by dv52 (Australia) on Sept 19, 2023 22:38:34 GMT
hmm............. you are focusing on the wrong part of the circuit!! From an electrical load perspective, the REAL problem with the current carrying capacity of the 0.35 sq-mm wire is NOT the position lights - the problem is M33 (because the wattage on this lamp is far higher than the load from the 3 x LEDs). So, if you make the changes that you propose - the REAL problem isn't solved (because M33 is still powered by an under-sized wire)!! The way to deal with the under-size wire problem AND the matter of the LED lamps is to modify the headlight circuit like this: The top part of my diagram means:
- cut the blue/black wire and insulate the wire-end that is terminated @ "C12"
- cut the yellow/white wire and replace the section from pin #10 on the headlight connector with a 0.5 sq-mm wire (shown as the brown wire on the lower part of my diagram)
The lower part of my diagram means: - Join the new-brown wire to the blue/black wire and connect to the contact on a relay - the other end of the contact is connected to a 12Volt supply. This battery supply should be a T30 Volt supply (i.e. it should NOT be a T15 supply)
- Terminate the cut end of the yellow/white wire from T46b /10 to the relay coil - the other end of the relay coil is earth.
Repeat the above circuit on the right car-side
With this arrangement, the load on the yellow/white wire will be very small - so the lasttyp channel on Leuchte2SL VLB10 will need to be programmed for low power. I'm not sure how this will work - you will need to experiment with different settings and maybe a power resistor might be needed as a dummy load across the relay coil (again, not sure)?
Don
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